It's always worth making proper stocks, but never more so than for risotto. Stock cubes are no substitute. A good stock is the pure and fresh essence of all its ingredients and is incredibly simple to make. Do it days before and freeze it if you like.

Wash and coarsely chop the following vegetables: two onions, one leek, half head of celery, half a garlic bulb unpeeled, one head fennel, four carrots and put in a big pan with fresh thyme and bay leaves and 3 litres of water. Simmer very gently for 4-5 hours. Remove, cool, strain through fine sieve.

• Preheat the oven to 220C / 425F / Gas 7. Heat the stock. Cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds, then cut each half into four or six pieces, depending on size. Season with salt, pepper and half the rosemary, then place on an oiled oven tray and bake until browned and cooked, about 35-40 minutes. Push the pumpkin with its skin through a mouli (or mash thoroughly).
• Heat three tablespoons of olive oil in a large, thick-bottomed saucepan, add the celery and onion, and soften for 5-6 minutes. Add the garlic, then chilli and remaining rosemary. Fry together briefly, then add the rice. Stir to coat each grain with the oil and allow it to become opaque, about 2-3 minutes.
• Add the tomato pulp, allow to reduce, then start to add the hot stock, ladle by ladle, stirring continuously, not adding more until the previous ladleful has been absorbed. Continue until the rice becomes al dente, about 15 minutes. Stir the pumpkin into the risotto. Test for seasoning. Serve drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and coursely grated Pecorino.

This a recipe by a fantastic chef and tastes completely sublime. However, if you don’t have homemade stock, you can use a good brand of stock cube, its not as good, but it will do at a pinch! Like any good recipe it is open to well judged adaptation depending on what you have available, for example most squash can be substituted for pumpkin, and Parmesan for Pecorino cheese.